Printers Alley

Welcome to Printers Alley! This is one of the most famous, or infamous, alleyways in the nation. Located between Third and Fourth Avenues and between Commerce and Union Streets, Printers Alley gets its name from the many newspaper and printing presses that operated in this area in the early 1900s. At one point Printer’s Alley was home to newspapers The Tennessean and the Nashville Banner, ten print shops, and thirteen publishers. As print technology shifted so did publishing—the last press closed shop in 1977. 

So why all the dive bars, pool halls, and dancing girls? Printers often worked all night, particularly newspapers, as presses rolled into the early morning in order to deliver papers by sunrise. This led to unconventional “break times” with shifts usually ending between 2 and 3 a.m. But that’s just one reason. Printer’s Alley was part of a large four-block area known as the “Men’s Quarter” which was shunned by “respectable” society—or at least that’s what people said publicly. The truth is that between the printing industry, banks and other businesses, and the nearby state capitol with legislators from across the state—there was no shortage of male clientele. And they spent quite a bit of time in these saloons, hotels, and gambling halls. Many of these venues closed with the state-wide prohibition of alcohol in 1909. That didn’t stop Printers Alley, which featured bars that were literally underground and “back door” access that was less likely to be raided by police. 

When Prohibition ended in 1939, Printers Alley entered its golden age. The Black Poodle Lounge and the Voodoo Lounge were successful nightclubs at the time, and stars like Chet Atkins, Boots Randolph, and Floyd Cramer played at Jimmy Clyde’s Carousel Club, a favorite among Nashville’s jazz musicians. Other musicians that played in the Alley include Hank Williams, Waylon Jennings, and Jimi Hendrix. Even Paul McCartney visited the Carousel Club during his 1974 trip to Music City; it inspired him to write the song “Sally G.” 

Another famous music venue, the Rainbow Room which you passed on the corner, was once owned by David “Skull” Schulman. He was so well-liked that he was called “Mayor of Printers Alley.” Originally an exotic dance club, the Rainbow Room brought live music and burlesque together, and it was the only venue in Nashville to play live music for its dancers. It definitely attracted a crowd. Likely impromptu performances, the King of Rock ‘n Roll Elvis Presley and soul singer Etta James both sang here—though not at the same time. We all know an Elvis hit or two, such as “I Can’t Help Falling in Love” or “You Ain’t Nothing but a Hound Dog,” but listen to a song that made the legendary blues and R&B singer Etta James famous:

I would rather go blind boy

Than to see you walk away from me child, Ohh

So you see I love you so much

That I don’t want to watch you leave me baby

Most of all I just, I just don’t want to be free now

On an unassuming night in 1998, Skull Schulman was working alone. The next morning, staff found him dead—murdered inside the club. The club closed and sat empty for nearly 20 years. Renovated and renamed “Skull’s Rainbow Room” the club and restaurant reopened in 2015 with seating for 140 people and the original black and white checkered stage. From Skull’s to karaoke bars to live music, Printers Alley is a great “off-Broadway” music experience!

Continue walking straight through Printers Alley, crossing Church Street and the famous Printers Alley sign, until you reach Commerce Street. In other words, keep walking down the alley, even after you cross Church. You’re going the right way if you pass Alley Taps on the right and a painted mural on the left. Once you reach Commerce Street, turn around. The CMT building is right behind you.