Commerce Street and Dolly Parton

You’re now standing at the corner of Second Avenue and Commerce Street, a crossroads that reflects multiple layers of Nashville’s history.

For the first century after Nashville was founded in 1779, Commerce Street did not exist. And when it was finally carved out between 1888 and 1897, it wasn’t even a street. It was an alley—Cumberland Alley, to be exact. As the city grew, the alley became Commerce Street and extended west to Ninth Avenue by 1914.

That transformation continued into the 1980s, when Commerce Street was widened and straightened. While these changes improved traffic flow, they also reshaped the street’s character: historic on one side, more modern on the other. But the most significant transformation here wasn’t just architectural—it was cultural.

In 1971, the Watch Your Hat and Coat Saloon opened here as Nashville’s first drag bar. At a time when such spaces were rare, and often risky, it welcomed both gay and straight audiences alike. Then, in 1972, owner Jerry Peek launched the Miss Gay America Pageant, drawing contestants from across the country.

This moment aligned with a broader cultural shift. In 1971, as Nashville was redefining itself, Dolly Parton was stepping into her own as a singular voice—glamorous, witty, and impossible to categorize, qualities that would help make her an icon to one of the most eclectic fan bases in American music.

The saloon’s story ended in flames—literally. In the early morning hours of May 1973, the building was destroyed by fire. Arson was suspected but never proven. In the aftermath, Jerry Peek relocated his drag shows to the Embers Cabaret Room in the nearby Printers Alley.

And in a fitting Nashville twist, just steps from here on Second Avenue, Dolly’s SongTeller Hotel offers a different kind of pilgrimage. For Dolly’s diverse fans, it’s truly a “coat of many colors.” Enjoy a visit to the museum inside, take some selfies, grab a bite, or check in for a good night’s rest.

To learn more about this area take our LGBTQ Driving Tour or let your boots do the walking on either our Capitol & Church Architecture or Seedy Side & Printers Alley walking tours.

For the next stop, keep walking up Second Avenue as you listen. Stay on the right side of the street for the best view of the Phil Ponder artwork you’ll see in a moment. Cross over Church Street and stop when you reach Bank Street.