Printers Alley

Printers Alley traces its roots back to the turn of the twentieth century, the Golden Age of American publishing. Printers Alley was once home to Nashville’s thriving publishing industry, where two large newspapers, ten print shops, and thirteen publishers could all be found in the one area. Nashville’s two largest newspapers—the Nashville Banner and The Tennessean—were both located here. The last printing company to operate out of the alley was Ambrose Printing Company, which moved in 1977. 

In the early 1900s, hotels, restaurants, and bars opened on Printers Alley, as a reaction to the statewide prohibition of alcohol that began in 1909. During this time, the area was known as the Men’s Quarter. By the 1940s, the alley was a hub for Nashville’s entertainment district as more nightclubs opened in the area, showcasing iconic performers such as Chet Atkins, Boots Randolph, Waylon Jennings, The Supremes, Hank Williams, and Jimi Hendrix. 

During the 1960s and 70s, it was impossible to talk about Printers Alley without mention of exotic dancer and local celebrity, Heaven Lee. Her career spanned a ten-year run at the Black Poodle and reported earning approximately $60,000 per year. What many don’t know is that she was also deeply involved in Nashville civic groups, and even lead a panel discussion on women’s rights for a fraternity at Vanderbilt. In 1974, she rode an elephant through downtown as part of the Barnum and Bailey Circus as they headed to Municipal Auditorium for the opening show. During a 1979 spike in gas prices, Heaven Lee famously rode her bike to work in her signature high heels. But perhaps her most daring stunt occurred in 1970. To protest environmental pollution she rode horseback down James Robertson Parkway. To the naked eye, pun intended, Heaven appeared nude to onlookers. As it turns out, she was wearing a body suit.

Another important landmark of Printers Alley is the Rainbow Room. The owner, David “Skull” Schulman was soprominent, that Nashville’s Metro Council declared him “Mayor of Printers Alley.” The Rainbow Room was originally a burlesque dance club, which was later converted into a country bar in the 1990s. One tragic night in 1998, Schulman was attacked and murdered in the club while working alone. His assailants were eventually caught, but the club never reopened. Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar rented the space for storage, but the employees refused to go in. Many swore of seeing a figure resembling “Skull” walking around the club and others even reported hearing his voice. 

After nearly 20 years, Skull’s Rainbow Room was reopened in June 2015 as a 140-seat bar and restaurant. Two of Schulman’s jackets are framed and displayed on the wall and the black-and-white television that “Skull” used to watch wrestling matches sits on a shelf—in case “Skull” should ever need it! 

Today, Printers Alley consists of several notable venues such as Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar, Lonnie’s Western Room, and the Brass Stables—all of which keep the vivacious and convivial spirit of the alley’s history alive. For more see our Seedy Side & Printers Alley and Capitol & Church Architecture tours.

Once you reach Skull’s Rainbow Room, turn LEFT onto Banker’s Alley and walk up to 4th Avenue. Cross at the cross walk and enter The Arcade. The entrance is marked with the green awning. If it is open, walk through as you listen to the narration. If the Arcade is closed, listen to the narrative as you walk back to the corner of 4th Avenue and Church Street. Walk up Church St. to 5th Ave. Cross over 5th Avenue and turn RIGHT. Stop in the middle of the block at the Nashville Sit-Ins historical marker just beside Woolworths on 5th and across the street from the green awning reading “TheArcade.”