Southern Turf/ Skull's Rainbow Room

The next site is located in one of Nashville’s most infamous historic districts: Printers Alley, which was part of the Men’s Quarter. The area's title derives from the concentration of printing companies once located here, and its reputation came from the fact that no "respectable" woman would dare be seen here. Filled with dive bars, cigar shops, brothels, hatters, and barbershops—this area catered to professional and working-class men. Saloons even offered free hot lunches with the purchase of a drink, often whiskey. With close proximity to the state capitol, banking industry, and publishing houses—politicians, lawyers, businessmen, and journalists frequented Fourth Avenue and Printers Alley. In the 1890s, venues began selling a quick meal you could hold in your hand: the hamburger. The food was so exotic that a local newspaper published an article in 1899 to explain that “burgers” did not include ham but rather ground beef.

Owner of the 1895 Southern Turf building, Marcus Cartwright, was a wealthy man who made his money selling books. At Southern Turf, Nashville’s high rolling gamblers met to play roulette, poker, and bird cage (a game played with three dice). As progressive reform movements gained momentum in the early twentieth century, anti-prohibitionist Mayor Hilary Howse chose not to enforce Tennessee's 1909 statewide prohibition laws. However, in 1914, the city forced saloons and gambling halls, including Southern Turf, to close. The Tennessean newspaper used the building until 1937, and in 1948, David “Skull” Shulman opened the Rainbow Room bar. Shulman owned and managed the bar, known for its stiff drinks and female dancers, for half a century until his tragic murder in 1998. 

Today Skull's Rainbow Room still features burlesque shows as an homage to Printers Alley—past and present. For more on Nashville dark past, take the Seedy Side and Printers Alley tour. For more on Nashville’s early banks see our Civic and Public Spaces tour.

From Skull’s, turn RIGHT into Printer’s Alley. As you exit the alley, turn LEFT onto Church Street. Shortly after, cross and turn LEFT onto Third Avenue North. Walking down the right side of Third, you will see an entrance to Black Rabbit on your right. Pause for your next narrative.