Watkins Institute & McKendree United Methodist Church

There is quite a bit of history that is hidden along Church Street. After you turn left on Church Street look immediately to your left. The first building you pass on your left is the Doctor’s Building. Rayna James’ recording studio in the television show Nashville was on the first floor— you’ll still see the logo on the window. Now look up to see the Medici coat of arms on the side of the building. The Medicis were an Italian Renaissance family dynasty famous for their tremendous wealth, arts patronage, and political prowess. But their name—Medici—is also the plural of medico, which translates as “medical doctor.” Remember I said this was called the Doctor’s Building, and the coat of arms was very intentionally part of the architectural design. As you cross 7th Ave N, you’ll also pass the former Castner-Knott department store, founded in Nashville in 1898 and an early sit-in site during the Civil Rights movement. 

Cross Church Street at 7th Avenue and continue walking east on Church Street. You’re now passing the current Nashville Public Library, one of the sponsors of Nashville Sites. There are public restrooms here, as well as permanent Civil Rights and Woman’s Suffrage exhibits on the second floor—so if it’s open—go inside and explore as you listen to the story of the building that once occupied this block on Church Street. 

Don’t let the library’s classical architecture style fool you. This building is fairly new—completed in 2001. For most of the twentieth century this was the site of the Watkins Institute, one of Nashville’s oldest educational institutions. Samuel Watkins believed that underprivileged youth in Nashville deserved an education, so when he died in 1880 he left $100,000 to start the Watkins Institute. Many of the historic buildings in the city were built with bricks produced by Samuel Watkins—who ran a successful construction supply business. The building had shops on the lower floor to provide a source of income for the school because, until 1958, the school was entirely free for all students. It served non-traditional students, many of whom were immigrants or adults. 

The institute offered lectures and lessons on a vast array of subjects, from sewing to public speaking to aeronautics. However, the school’s art program was the most successful. When the sale and demolition of the original Watkins Institute building was finalized in 1998 to make way for the new library, the visual arts and film programs split and moved to North Nashville. Watkins College of Art merged with Belmont University in 2020 and is now one of Belmont’s thirteen colleges. For more on Nashville’s award-winning library, there are several tours that explore different aspects of the library. So check out Capitol and Church Architecture, Women’s History Highlights, Civil Rights Sit-Ins, and Civic and Public Spaces on Nashville Sites. 

For the second part of this stop, continue walking down Church St. McKendree United Methodist will be about half a block up on your right.

The McKendree United Methodist Church has seen its fair share of Nashville’s history since 1833, and there are several interesting stories to share. In 1887, the Vendome Theater opened just down the street. Emma Abbott, a famous singer, was the theater’s opening performance. The following day, she attended a Sunday service at McKendree. To her surprise, the topic of the minister’s sermon was a condemnation of Vendome. Abbott stood up and confronted the minister. He responded, “I shall not undertake to answer the lady because she is a lady.” Churchgoers overruled the minister and pleaded with Abbott to sing. She agreed and sang the final hymn as a solo.

McKendree was also the site for the first documented streaking incident in Nashville, well before the streaking craze of the 1960s and 70s. In August 1909, Thomas Dozier was arrested for public intoxication. He then pretended to swallow matches in his jail cell, so they moved him to the hospital. Dozier jumped out of the second-story window wearing a half open hospital gown. In an effort to run home, he streaked through downtown Nashville. But it was here at McKendree where the barefoot, mostly naked Dozier drew a crowd. 

Beyond streaking and condemning theaters, McKendree has also hosted several important events. President Polk’s funeral was held here as well as several gubernatorial inductions. Surprisingly, this Methodist congregation even made a deal with the Masons. In 1910, Ben Allen, a famous hypnotist, palm reader, and Freemason, died. The Freemasons of Nashville did not yet have a building and McKendree’s leadership allowed them to hold the first Masonic service in this area of the South at McKendree. Black robes and all, this sanctuary was transformed into a dimly lit, seance-like service to honor Ben Allen. For more on McKendree Methodist, take our Old Time Religion and Capitol and Church Architecture tours!

Continue walking down Church Street to 4th Ave. Stop once you reach the L&C Tower on the corner on your right. This building was Nashville's first true skyscraper and the tallest in Tennessee until 1965. Look across Church Street and locate Chase Bank in the former SunTrust Building. This is the former site of the Maxwell Hotel. Click “Next Stop” and read or listen from across the street.